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Leonard Frank: Rozvojová hra

Na svojom kriteko blogu uverejňujem preklad osobného svedectva zamestnanca nemenovanej medzinárodnej organizácie, ktorého priezvisko je skutočným nomen omen. Cynická spoveď insidera poukazuje na niektoré zo základných problémov „rozvojových“ intervencií. Skôr než na chudobných obyvateľov Pakistanu záleží profesionálom často skôr na nutnosti minúť peniaze určené na „rozvoj“ a pritom obohatiť seba samých. Z textu zároveň dobre vidno neustále prítomný latentný rasizmus a tiež schopnosť zatlačiť do úzadia skutočné politické problémy regiónu a sústrediť sa na „rozvoj“. Nech už toto prázdne slovo znamená čokoľvek, dnes sa používa v rovnakej miere ako pred dvadsiatimisiedmimi rokmi, kedy text vznikol. Zmeny v „rozvojovom“ priemysle nič neuberajú na jeho aktuálnosti ani v súčasnosti. Hoci je text pomerne dlhší ako je zvykom na tomto blogu, verím, že jeho beletristická forma pripraví čitateľom a čitateľkám aj príjemný umelecký zážitok.

Rozvoj v zmysle „rozvoja Tretieho sveta“ je skazené slovo. Je to prostitútka medzi slovami. Tí, ktorí ho používajú, sa vám nedokážu pozrieť do očí. Medzi prírodovedcami znamená pokrok, realizáciu vrodeného potenciálu. To slovo je jasné a nespochybniteľné, je dôvodom na oslavu. Z úst politikov, ekonómov a rozvojových expertov ako som ja znie síce rovnako, ale v podstate neznamená nič. Neexistujú žiadne gény predurčujúce tvar ľudskej spoločnosti. Nedá sa hovoriť o spoločnosti tak, ako záhradník hovorí o kvete, ktorý vypestoval do očakávaného tvaru. Je to prázdne slovo, ktoré môže naplniť hocikto, s úmyslom utajiť skryté zámery, Trójsky kôň medzi slovami. Naznačuje, že to, čo mocní robia slabším je ich vlastný osud, ich vlastné zlyhanie. Užitočné, mdlé, zlomyseľné slovo, prostitútka medzi slovami. Z úst Američanov znie slovo „rozvoj“ podobne ako slovo „psychoterapia“ z úst Rusov.

Nie. To je nonsens. Na „rozvoji“ nie je nič zlé. Je to jednoducho užitočné slovo na opísanie spôsobu, ako dosiahnuť želané ciele: vyššie príjmy, lepšiu výživu atď. Nevedú sa žiadne vážne spory o tom, čo je tu žiaduce, jednoducho ho všetci používame a jeho hodnota tkvie v zdieľanom porozumení jeho významu. To je všetko.

Som šťastný. Som sám. Sedím na balkóne s vyloženými nohami, dokonale uvoľnený. Moja ľavá ruka sa praží na slnku; pravá je v tieni, ešte studená z nočného chladu. Tu hore nie je dosť vzduchu na filtrovanie svetla zo slnka, ani dosť na udržanie jeho tepla. Križuje ma ostrý diagonálny tieň, som šťastne rozdelený. Na nízkom stole pod mojim lakťom je kanvica so zeleným čajom, ktorú mi priniesol sluha. Vedľa neho sú papiere a neotvorená správa. Za týmto oddychovým sídlom sú hory – úbočia, horské údolia, vrcholy, sneh, vysoké priesmyky, Himaláje, strecha sveta.

V živote muža, ako som ja, je pár dokonalých chvíľ. Jednou z nich je aj táto a ja sa priam chvejem. Som tu, ale aj nie som. Dočasne som sa zbavil funkcie medzi týmito horskými štítmi. Prišiel som, ale nikto o tom nevie. Úradníci neboli informovaní, ďalší členovia misie ešte nedorazili. Na chvíľu som voľný.

„Nechceš Botswanu. Chceš Pakistan!“ Kórejčan volajúci zo Ženevy má výbušný spôsob rozprávania. „Pakistan. Severozápadná hranica. Krásne miesto. Hory. Je to dobré miesto pre človeka, ako si ty. Obľúbené miesto pre vás, Západniarov. Veľká Hra a všetky tie veci. Vykašli sa na Botswanu: chceš Pakistan. Budúci týždeň. Pred tým, než nasneží. Veľmi krásne.“

Znelo to ako dobrý nápad. V Botswane je mnoho ľudí zapojených do rozvoja, nemôžete nájsť nič, čo by vám zaplatilo niečo ďalšie. Opýtal som sa na afganskú vojnu.

„Nie, nie. Vojna nie. Zabudni na vojnu. Títo ľudia sú veľmi chudobní. Nikto pre nich nič neurobil. Žiaden rozvoj. Oni rozvoj potrebujú. Mal by si ísť, než začne snežiť.“

Nechcem vedieť o vojne v susedstve. Nechcú, aby som vedel. Alebo o pašovaní ópia. Toto sú dve veci, o ktorých nechcem nič vedieť. A takisto o politike. Ani o politike nechcem nič vedieť.

V misii na severozápadnej hranici sme šiesti: starý Japonec, Kórejčan, Američan, Bangladéšan, holandské dievča a ja. Som Kanaďan s francúzskou matkou. Nikto z nás tu predtým nebol. Doteraz sme sa nepoznali. Ani Kórejčan, ktorý nás sem dostal, nás nepozná. Moje meno získal od Inda, s ktorým som raz pracoval v Manile a tak mi zavolal na moje parížske číslo.

Ako sa svet dostal na túto cestu? Všetko je to pomerne logické, no príliš zložité, aby sa človek nad tým zamýšľal. Tak dobre: Japonec, pretože japonské peniaze sú dôležité; Bangladéšan, lebo tí sú lacní a hnedí; Kórejčan, lebo organizátorom misie je práve on, Američan kvôli štatistikám; holandské dievča – sociologička, pre jemný a teplý dotyk. Mix ľudí, keďže teraz je to medzinárodná agentúra. Ja to mám na starosti, robím hlavné rozhodnutia. Máme štyri týždne na to, aby sme prišli s projektom za tridsať miliónov dolárov. Rutina.

Táto práca je otázkou limitovania škody. Vlastnej škody. Trávite svoj čas na miestach, ktoré nechcete poznať, s ľuďmi, ktorých by ste si sami nevybrali. Ja by som si ich nevybral, ani oni by si nevybrali mňa. Naučíte sa v tom chodiť: nespozorujete nič, čo nechcete, plánujete si prácu tak, aby ste mohli ostať v medzinárodných hoteloch. Milo udržiavate konverzáciu. Američan je rasista, ale ja si to nevšímam. Kórejčan je večne mrzutý, lebo sa mu rozpadá manželstvo, no mňa to nezaujíma. Ľudia neboli stvorení na to, aby každý mesiac cestovali do inej krajiny a intímne sa zžívali so skupinami cudzincov. Keď sa ľudia a miesta príliš často menia, vaša myseľ si s tým nevie dať rady. Mätie vás to a vaše spomienky sa rozplývajú. Raz som sa rozhodol oženiť so ženou vo Francúzsku, ale po návšteve Venezuely, Novej Guiney a Zanzibaru som na ňu zabudol.

Na ľuďoch v tomto údolí je niečo rušivé: vyzerajú práve tak, ako ja. Sú to chudobní roľníci, no vyzerajú ako ja. Majú svetlú pleť, ružové líca, rovné nosy. Niektorí sú plavovlasí s modrými očami. Som zvyknutý na to, že moja cieľová skupina je hnedšia. Videl som hrať sa dve malé plavovlasé dievčatká, ktoré vyzerali ako z Kalifornie, až na to, že mali zašpinené tváre. Možno tu deti majú špinavé tváre, pretože tu prší len zriedka a voda z roztopeného snehu je príliš studená na umývanie. Nemám sa na to koho opýtať.

Ich psy sú ako naše. Zdá sa, že kokršpanieli sú tu najobľúbenejší. Ľudia radi sedia na záhradných stoličkách na trávniku pod stromami a maznajú sa so svojimi psami. Pestujú marhule a jablká. Jablká! Ľudia v mojich projektoch pestujú mangá, papáje, banány, marakuje. Nepestujú jablká. Mám podozrenie, že tu ide o dôkladne premyslený vtip.

Zajtra ideme do druhého údolia a pozajtra do ďalšieho. Hľadáme doliny na rozvíjanie.

Starý Japonec je príbuzný japonského cisára. Môj otec riadil samoobslužnú predajňu. Minulú noc sme zdieľali spoločnú izbu. Chrápe. Pristihol som sa pri snahe identifikovať neviditeľnú silu, ktorá ho vytiahla z jeho detstva a mňa z môjho a preniesla nás spoločne na severozápadnú hranicu. No hneď som s tým prestal. Pri raňajkách sme sa zhovárali o golfových kurzoch v Japonsku, ženách v Manile a výhodách a nevýhodách hotelov Intercontinental a Holiday Inn.

Títo ľudia sú veľmi chudobní. Môžu vyzerať ako ja, ale pravdou je, že sú veľmi chudobní. Živoria bez toho, aby mali dostatok pôdy, či vody. Nemajú dosť jedla. Vláda každý rok vo veľkom náklade prerozdeľuje dotovanú pšenicu, no množstvo ľudí býva príliš ďaleko na to, aby sa k nim vôbec dostalo. Muži musia opustiť svoje domovy, aby mohli hľadať prácu niekde inde. Ekológia zlyháva. Už tu nie je dosť stromov, ktoré by poskytli drevo na dlhé zimy. Keďže stromy boli zničené, dochádza tu k zosuvom pôdy pochovávajúcim celé dediny a záplavám ničiacich úrodu.

Situáciu zhoršuje tri a pol milióna afganských utečencov, ale nás sa to netýka. Utečenci sú pod osobitnou administráciou a pre nás sotva existujú. Míňame ich tábory a karavany, ale úradníci upriamujú našu pozornosť inam. Základne mudžahedínov pre nás neexistujú. V nevšímaní si sme obzvlášť dobrí.

Roľníci nič nepredávajú a kupujú len málo. Nie sú tu žiadne trhy. Sotva im prináleží pomenovanie roľník. Pol roka sú snehom odrezaní od sveta, počas druhej polovice je presun príliš drahý na to, aby sa im oplatil. Tí ľudia sú zbedačení. Investovať sa oplatí iba do pestovania najľahších a najcennejších plodín. Ópiové maky sú síce ideálne, ale my sme sa rozhodli, že pre nás neexistujú.

Ak to zhrniem, týmto ľuďom chýbajú zdroje, trhy, infraštruktúra a technológie. Sú vhodnou cieľovou skupinou. Ich vzhľad ale klame.

„OK, ale ak ho zadefinujeme ako región produkujúci ópium, projekt bude musieť patriť pod OEDD program podporovaný Spojenými štátmi, aby ho koordinoval s medzinárodným financovaním nahradzovania ópiového maku. Ak tak urobíme, podmienky amerických daňových poplatníkov nás zaradia do rámca vynucovacieho práva. To znamená, že budeme musieť previesť finančné prostriedky prostredníctvom NPSEB federálnej vlády. A to sú zlé správy. Lepšie je definovať to tu ako región bez ópiových makov a urobiť projektovú časť SDD bez vynucovacieho práva, a tak môžeme vynechať OEDD a priamo to lokalizovať v DCD PG. To nám veľmi uľahčí vyplácanie finančných prostriedkov. Samozrejme, že Američania a UNCAD budú naštvaní, že nedostali ani kúsok z koláča, ale je tu ešte stále dosť agentúr, ktoré sa s radosťou budú podieľať na financovaní. Každý dnes chce časť severozápadnej hranice.“

„Správne.“

Ako sa svet dostal na túto cestu? Je to dosť jednoduché. Počkajte, nech si spomeniem. Ku koncu druhej svetovej vojny bohaté krajiny, uvedomujúce si potrebu rekonštrukcie Európy a vytvorenia záruk proti ekonomickej nestabilite, vytvorili Medzinárodný menový fond a Medzinárodnú banku pre rekonštrukciu a rozvoj – Svetovú banku. Po naplnení amerického Marshallovho plánu v Európe, mohla Svetová banka obrátiť svoju pozornosť k najchudobnejším krajinám sveta. Tým, že im poskytla vzácny kapitál za výhodných podmienok, umožnila v nich investície nad rámec existujúcich zdrojov. Navyše, Svetová banka bola schopná dodať aj chýbajúce vedomosti. Úspech týchto priekopníckych snáh viedol k vytvoreniu siete medzinárodných rozvojových bánk pracujúcich pod otcovským dohľadom Svetovej banky. V súčasnosti národy Tretieho sveta požadujú od množstva medzinárodných a bilaterálnych agentúr podporu v ich rozvojovom úsilí a nadnárodné misie skúsených „rozvojových profesionálov“ sú pripravené okamžite zasiahnuť v reakcii na konkrétne potreby. Tak, a teraz si môžem ísť ľahnúť.

Až na to, že by ste si mohli povedať – niekde som to už počul – že Svetová banka je v skutočnosti americká organizácia a jej začiatky neboli idealistické ale oportunistické. Požičala peniaze, aby najchudobnejšie krajiny prinútila dovážať priemyselné tovary a vyvážať suroviny. Snaží sa tak pripútať si svet dlžníckym putom. Trvala na projektoch, navrhnutých vlastnými ľuďmi s cieľom presadzovať svoje politiky, na úkor miestnych potrieb. Po vojne prišla so zásadným politickým objavom: že rozvojové financie sú lacnejšie ako kolonializmus, ale rovnako účinné. Je to ako rozdiel medzi zázračným liekom a hrubou chirurgiou. Sme misionári reprezentujúci americkú predstavu o svete, v tejto chvíli od nás vzdialenú tisíce kilometrov. Kapitál nikdy nespí. Hľadá tie najzabudnutejšie údolia Himalájí, ktoré sú zaujímavé pre heroinistov v New Yorku, pre Rusov na druhej strane hranice a ktoré potrebuje spriatelený diktátor, aby ustál jedny voľby. Všetci sme cudzinci, no sme Američania. Nikto z nás nepozná Pakistan, ale všetci vieme, čo je preň dobré.

Teraz nemôžem spať.

Pravdou je, že nás ovládajú peniaze. Sme čestní makléri, ktorí stoja medzi nevedomou chudobou a vplyvným bohatstvom. Opatrným plánovaním kontrolujeme kapitál. Garantujeme, že vlády nepoužijú pomoc na sebecké, či despotické ciele. Stojíme v ceste neodolateľnej sile a snažíme sa, aby sa nevymkla spod kontroly.

Teraz ma, prosím, nechajte spať.

„Je to absolútne úžasné. Sú to tí najúžasnejší ľudia. Viete, že ich kultúra sa viaže k Peržanom a Číňanom? Naozaj vôbec nepatria k zvyšku Pakistanu. Mali by ste sa porozprávať s dedinčanmi. Tí presne vedia, čo chcú. Sú veľmi dobre organizovaní a veľmi presvedčiví. Sociologicky je to úžasné. Celá komunita je oddaná budovaniu neuveriteľných zavlažovacích diel. Boli ste sa na nich v horách pozrieť? Stavajú tie kamenné kanály vysoko v úbočiach – niekedy voda putuje päť míľ pozdĺž strmej skaly, predtým než sa dostane k pôde. Mohli by poučovať západných inžinierov. Sociálna štruktúra je nenarušená a sebestačná, všetka pracovná sila je organizovaná komunitou a jej členovia dbajú na to, aby sa z jej plodov ušlo každému. Tí ľudia sú geniálni! Všetky stromy a zvieratá sú tiež spravované na úrovni komunity. A videli ste, akí sú dôstojní? Usmievajú sa, pretože sa ešte necítia byť ponížení vonkajším svetom. Mali by sme tu dávať veľký pozor; majú niečo veľmi hodnotné. Treba na to ísť opatrne. Inak tu nemôžem súhlasiť s rozvojom.“

Predpokladám, že to holandské dievča má pravdu, ale kam nás to dostane? Vláda chce rýchlo minúť množstvo peňazí; agentúra ich chce požičať. Je naivná. Zaťažuje ma. Nerozumie najjednoduchšiemu faktu života bankára: budúcoročný výnos sa oplatí, ale výnos o desať rokov nestojí ani za zapnutie počítača. Kapitál a opatera sa nedajú miešať a ona by si mala uvedomiť, či ju platí agentúra alebo roľníci.

Z miestnej krásy som chorý. Sedím na verande s piatimi spoločníkmi, ktorých som si nevybral. Niektorí z nich čítajú projektové správy, predstierajúc, že pracujú. Každému z nás došli neutrálne témy, o ktorých by sa dalo baviť. Pred verandou sú horské kvety, ďalej veľká rieka a potom hory. Ak sa rozhliadnem, všetky zasnežené štíty vyzerajú ako poleva na snehových pusinkách. Toto nechcem. Je to ako škodoradostný podvod. Ľudia sú chudobní, hory logistickou nočnou morou. Všetko je vertikálne, namiesto horizontálneho. Budovanie ciest bude stáť v priemere dvojnásobok. Nebo je tu nezmyselne modré, úplne čisté. Vtiahne vás. Vďaka bohu, že sa zajtra vraciame do Intercontinentalu v Pešávari.

Minimálne dvaja ľudia v misii sú duševne chorí. Mýlia si to, čo tvrdia, že robia s tým, čo naozaj robia. Američan pri sebe neustále nosí svoj počítač a vkladá doň všetky oficiálne štatistiky, ktoré nájde. Chce vypočítať dopady všetkých našich možných investícií do regiónu. Šialenstvo naberá formu obsedantnej dôkladnosti ohľadom dát a analytických techník. Ak si dve čísla navzájom odporujú – tak, ako vždy – potí sa nad zlaďovaním rozdielu a vážením priemerov. Snaží sa vytvoriť samostatný ekonomický model, ktorý začne pri dennej konzumácii mlieka migrantských pastierov v zime a skončí pri nepriamych makroekonomických výhodách náhrady dovozu oleja. Oči má nalepené na obrazovke a je nemožné ho viac dostať na stretnutia. Zo stoličky vstáva len preto, aby si išiel zabehať a vracia sa rovnako ustatý, ako keď odišiel. Radím mu, nech si oddýchne. Vravím mu, pričom trochu preháňam, že polovica štatistík pochádza od dedinských úradníkov, ktorí si ich vymysleli a druhá polovica bola zmanipulovaná vládou kvôli politike. Nech je ako chce, na počtoch aj tak nezáleží. Projekt nakoniec aj tak bude. Oni si chcú požičať, my chceme požičať im. Jeho ekonomické výpočty budú len zásterkou. Vravím mu, že je to politika, nie ekonómia. Pri tých slovách ho posadne zúrivosť. Vstane a prevrhne stoličku. Trvá na tom, že je profesionál a, že by som mal rešpektovať jeho odborné znalosti a integritu. Zmením tému. Je to skúsený expert. Viem, že nakoniec presvedčí sám seba, že vyhovujúce výpočty sú tie správne.

Kórejčan duševne tiež nie je v poriadku. Má 40 rokov, polovicu žalúdka mu odstránili, každú noc pije fľašu whisky a svoj voľný čas venuje pornografii, ktorú si nosí so sebou. Doma ho žena opustila, pretože bol vždy preč. Podlieza starému Japoncovi, ktorý s ním zaobchádza ako so sluhom a vyžaduje od neho, aby mu pripravoval jedlo či poskytoval masáže nad rámec jeho povinností odborníka na poľnohospodárstvo. Jeho problém spočíva v tom, že má skutočne rád miestnych sedliakov a napodiv hovorí dostatočne dobre urdsky na to, aby sa s nimi zhováral. Tento súcit je v rozpore s jeho metódou práce, ktorá musí začať s tým, čo si myslí, že by roľníci mali robiť o desať rokov a potom ísť naspäť v čase. Vždy keď premýšľa týmto spôsobom, zistí, že sedliaci by boli nútení zmeniť svoj život spôsobom, aký by sa im nepáčil. Nedokáže zladiť myšlienku, že zo sedliakov by sa mali stať Kórejci a že zároveň by pritom mali byť šťastní. To ho núti siahnuť po fľaši whisky, pornografii a v jednom prípade aj po mojej spoločnosti o štvrtej ráno v mojej izbe. Tam potom opitý rozpráva o tom, že je obyčajný človek, náhodou vzdelaný roľník, na rozdiel od starého Japonca – aristokrata, ktorého musí rešpektovať, no potajomky ho neznáša.

Naučil som sa o Kórejčanovi viac než ktokoľvek iný. Počas dlhej noci sme sa bavili o jeho pocitoch a problémoch. Nebezpečenstvo som si všimol až s východom slnka, keď som pochopil, že musím byť prísny a jasne stanoviť konečný termín na jeho meškajúcu správu. Potom, ako odišiel, som pociťoval závraty, ako keď človek chodí po kraji útesu.

Starý Japonec šialený nie je. Jeho život je hra a on ju hrá veľmi dobre. Ani mladá Holanďanka nie je šialená, pretože ešte nie je jej súčasťou. Ja tiež nie som šialený, poznám pravidlá.

„Horská oblasť nás veľmi zaujíma. Chceme pre našich ľudí rýchlo niečo urobiť. Nechceme váš šesťročný projekt, chceme dva-tri roky. Ľudia tu hore sotva vedia, že existuje vláda. Pýtajú sa, čo pre nich robí. Vidia utečencov prijímajúcich všetky druhy medzinárodnej pomoci a čudujú sa, prečo oni nič nedostávajú. Nie je to pokojné miesto. Nemali by ste rozmýšľať v malom. Chceme tu niečo dokázať. Mali by ste pripojiť týchto ľudí ku zvyšku Pakistanu. Mali by ste budovať tunely cez hory a zprejazdňovať cesty, až po hraničné oblasti. Sú tam veľké neúrodné plochy, ktoré by ste mohli zavlažovať v rámci veľkých zavlažovacích projektov. Dávam vám svoje slovo. Ak nám dáte peniaze, my to dokážeme. Vieme vysťahovať ľudí z preplnených území do nových úrodných oblastí. Vieme otvoriť región novým plodinám a priemyslu. Príliš sa bojíte. Výskum poľnohospodárstva a modernizácia fariem nestačia. Chceme výsledky. Je to prioritná oblasť. Vláda je pripravená zasiahnuť. Vieme čo treba robiť, nemusíte na tom pracovať do detailu. Len uvoľnite peniaze a my urobíme zvyšok.“

Bolí ma hlava. Sme späť z Himalájí. Nerušte ma v mojej izbe hotela Intercontinental. Zatiahol som závesy. Hotelové izby v Pakistane majú televízie, pretože sa tu nedá nikam ísť. Žiadne bary, nočné kluby, žiadne ženy. Teda nie oficiálne. Ide film Na zlatom jazere o starom roztržitom Američanovi, ktorého hrá Henry Fonda a nevrlou starou ženou. Meno herečky som kedysi vedel. Každý mesiac sa naučím mená stovky nových ľudí a stovky miest a potom ich zabudnem. Rovnako ako prostitútka, aj ja som majstrom v zabúdaní ale je to veľmi neexaktná vedná disciplína. Vo filme si všimnem, že po prvé, ten pár má veľa peňazí a po druhé, má veľa času. Vypínam to, aby som prešiel hromadu správ, z ktorých urobím tú svoju.

V Pešávari vyhodili do vzduchu úrad PIA, železničnú stanicu, khyberskú zásielkovú službu, bazár, afganský úrad a tretí najlepší hotel – dvakrát. V našom hoteli pri bazéne niekto zastrelil belošku, ale bolo mi povedané, že to bola náboženská vražda, nie politická. Pýtam sa svojho vládneho sprievodcu, či Intercontinental spolu s nami vyletí do vzduchu. Z nejakého dôvodu ma považuje za spojenca a bezstarostne sa pustí do analýzy súčasnej situácie. Podľa oficiálnej línie je Rusmi krytá afganská vláda zodpovedná, hoci pri jednej príležitosti sa zdalo, že sa bombardujú sami. Ich motív má byť, že bombové útoky vyvolávajú hnev u Pakistancov voči afganským utečencom, ktorí už aj bez toho nie sú obľúbení, pretože preberajú väčšinu výnosných obchodov. Ak utečenci prestanú byť vítaní, Pakistan nebude viac schopný efektívne podporovať mudžahedínov, ktorí sú s nimi v kontakte. Môj dôverník pochybuje o tejto verzii. Vraví mi, že je podporovateľom Benazir Bhutto a rýchleho návratu k demokratickej vláde. Verí, že jeho vlastná vláda sa bombarduje preto, aby vytvorila bezpečnostnú krízu, ktorá ospravedlnení pokračovanie stanného práva.

Celé je to ale zložitejšie. Je dosť indiskrétny. Netuším, či má pravdu, alebo sa mýli. Nakoniec si všimne, že mi je to jedno a zahanbene sa odmlčí. Znova sa ho pýtam, či si myslí, že náš hotel vyletí do vzduchu. Vravím mu, že je to dôležité kvôli projektu. Odpovedá, že sa nemusím obávať. Zdá sa, že bombových útočníkov zaujíma len zabíjanie miestnych.

Nemám rád zmenu, ale je tu jeden nový fakt, ktorý musím akceptovať – Japonsko. Japonec sa ma ticho pýta na voľné pracovné miesta v medzinárodných organizáciách. Môžem mu pomôcť zamestnať jeho ľudí? Je nešťastný z japonského kajúcneho postoja vo svete rozvoja. Vojna sa už dávno skončila, no hoci sú japonské peniaze dôležité, jeho krajina nemá až taký vplyv, aký by zodpovedal jej podielu. Je to ponižujúce. Chcel by meniť veci, ale opatrne a pomaly. Podporujem ho. Aj tak k tomu dôjde. Pozval ma do Japonska a ja som pripravený prestať byť Američanom a stať sa Japoncom. Som unavený z nových miest, ale myslím, že tam pôjdem.

S holandským dievčaťom je trápenie. Čo vôbec chcú dokázať, tým, že pošlú mladú ženu do moslimskej krajiny? Úradníci ju nepočúvajú a jej neskúsenosť je pre nás ostatných problémom. Zisťuje, že úradný svet sa nezhoduje s ozajstným. Navštevuje dediny a pri večeri nám podáva správy o tom, ako zavlažovacie schémy nefungujú tak, ako to tvrdí vláda, alebo, že zamestnanci z veterinárnej oblasti predávajú lieky, ktoré by mali rozdávať. Vraví nám, že peniaze na budovanie základných škôl išli do vreciek dodávateľom a miestnym politikom. Oficiálne výpočty nákladnej prepravy sú nesprávne, pretože prehliadajú Afgancov, ktorí vlastnia najviac kamiónov. A tak ďalej. Je ako detektív vzrušený z odkrývania rozsiahlej konšpirácie. Pokrytecky odpovedáme a pokúšame sa zmeniť tému. Starý Japonec nevraví nič a hľadá zámienku, aby mohol odísť od stola.

Musíte sa rozhodnúť, či žijete v reálnom, alebo v úradnom svete. Dnes žijem v tom úradnom. Ozajstný svet je nekonečne komplexný, a dokonca ani ľudia, ktorí sú jeho súčasťou, mu nerozumejú. Sme tu len na štyri týždne a väčšinu z toho na úradných stretnutiach. Keď zistíte, že úradný svet sa nezhoduje s reálnym, môžete akceptovať úradnú verziu alebo si spraviť vlastný úsudok. Najlepšie je vždy brať do úvahy vládne výpočty. Týmto spôsobom si ušetríte prácu a zároveň nebudete šliapať po prstoch dôležitým ľuďom. Koniec koncov, sme tu len ako hostia.

„Pozrite sa, chceme vám požičať peniaze, o ktorých vravíte, ale jedno údolie nestačí. Na jedno údolie je ich jednoducho priveľa. Potrebujeme minimálne dve, no najlepšie tri údolia. Chceme aspoň milión ľudí. Inak sa to Ženeve nebude páčiť. Úprimne, povedia, že sa misiu ani neoplatí vyslať. Chceme vám dať projekt, ale budete musieť vziať nejaké údolia od niekoho iného a dať ich nám.“

Trávim život v kanceláriách iných ľudí. Tu sú úradníci slušní a inteligentní a vždy trvajú na čaji a keksíkoch. V tomto prípade je to administrátor britského typu – kultúrny, sčítaný a všestranný človek. Používam svoju obvyklú techniku. Nechám človeka rozprávať, zatiaľ čo si čmáram do notesa, predstierajúc, že si zaznamenávam jeho názory. Stretnutie ide správnym smerom, keď zrazu uvedú troch Francúzov, aby si vyzdvihli svoje turistické povolenia. Príležitostné bombardovanie hraničného územia ruskými MiGmi nezamedzilo propagácii turizmu ministerstvom, ktoré sa nevenuje obrane.

Dvaja francúzski muži a jedna žena sa zdajú byť neúmerne zaskočení mojou prítomnosťou a ich pozdravy sprevádza zmätok. Na turistov, idúcich do hôr, pôsobia dosť nepravdepodobne: dvaja z nich – pár v strednom veku – sú obézni, kým tretí je vyšportovaný mladý muž. Na Francúzov na drahej dovolenke sú podozrivo zle oblečení. Žena má nakrivo ostrihané vlasy a rozmazaný mejkap. Všetci sú lacno oblečení. Vyhýbajú sa mi pohľadom, aby sa so mnou nemuseli rozprávať. Som presvedčený o tom, že to nie sú Francúzi. Kým úradník podpisuje dokumenty a hovorí o snežných leopardoch a vzácnych jastraboch, vyskytujúcich sa v horách, ja skúmam ich topánky. Vyzerajú ako tenisky značiek Adidas a Nike, ale v skutočnosti sú to len ich lacné napodobeniny. Teraz som presvedčený, že sú to Rusi, hrajúci sa na turistov. Žiaden bohatý Francúz by nenosil napodobeniny značkových topánok.

Po ich odchode sa úradník ospravedlňuje a vracia k našej konverzácii, pričom vysvetľuje, že je jeho úlohou podporovať turizmus. Krčím plecami a hovorím mu, že rozumiem.

„Rozhodli sme sa, že vám môžeme dať o dve údolia viac. Dáme vám americké údolie a jedno, ktoré malo ísť Nemcom. Chceme obmedziť bilaterálne financovanie v prospech medzinárodných donorov. Ale musíme mať záruku, že rýchlo uvoľníte peniaze.“

„To nie je problém. Zavolám do Ženevy.“

Niekto na týchto výletoch vždy ochorie. Cudzie jedlo, cudzí hmyz, nezdravý hotelový život. Zvyčajne to spôsobuje stres. Ľudia neboli na takýto život stvorení. Prvý bol starý Japonec a jeho bolesti a trápenia, teraz je to Bangladéšan. Američan je príliš vyschnutý na to, aby ochorel a holandské dievča zas príliš vitálne. Ja sa šetrím a pochybujem, že to budem ja. Bangladéšan pociťuje nejaký druh pálenia v žalúdku a stále vracia. Minulý týždeň mi povedal, že túži po domove a že mu chýbajú deti. Čo som mu mal povedať? Jeho choroba nám všetkým spôsobuje ťažkosti a svojim spôsobom je neprofesionálna. Všetci musíme viac pracovať. Ak sa mu stav zhorší, bude potrebné sa rozhodnúť. Buď ho dáme do americkej nemocnice, alebo ho pošleme domov. Tak, či onak, nedostane zaplatené a viac ho na projekt nikto nezamestná.

Táto misia ma unavuje. Nemám rád moslimské krajiny: sťažujú vám život. Na celom svete sú muži rovnakí: môžete sa s nimi uvoľniť v baroch, rozprávať o peniazoch, politike a ženách. Tu na verejnosti nepijú a nepriznávajú sa k túžbe po opačnom pohlaví. Vôľa Alaha sa odrazu objaví uprostred diskusie o biznise. Stretnutie sa zastaví, pretože nastal čas modlitby generálneho riaditeľa. Celé miesto sa zdá byť trochu mimo. Tá istá vláda, ktorá používa dobre prepracované ekonomické analýzy, má rovnaký záujem kriminálnikom odsekávať ruky a verejne ich bičovať. Sotva uvidíte ženu na ulici, a ak áno, je zahalená od hlavy až po päty. Prichytil som sa, že sa pokúšam zachytiť pohľadom aspoň jej členok, len aby som zistil, či je tá žena mladá alebo stará, tučná či chudá. Na budúci mesiac idem do Gambie, kde sú hotely plné anglických turistiek chodiacich hore bez.

„OK, urobíme nasledovné. Zachováme šesťročný koncept, ale urobíme prvú štvorročnú fázu, aby sme uspokojili vládu. Zameriame sa na maloroľníkov s väčším podielom vládnych zamestnancov na projektoch a dopravy v regióne, ale kvôli veľkým stavebným projektom do toho zahrnieme predbežné štúdie uskutočniteľnosti, a tak nebudú môcť povedať, že sme ich nebrali do úvahy. Z logistického a sociologického hľadiska sú veľké projekty pohromou. Zahrnieme ich do celkového balíčka ale oddelene ich vydražíme medzi kofinancujúce agentúry. Je dosť rozvojových organizácií, ktoré o ne budú usilovať. Nezabudnite, Pakistan je úspešný príbeh: spláca svoje dlhy. A toto je teraz najlukratívnejšia oblasť. Určitú časť vyhradíme na cesty, ekologickými problémami sa zaoberať nebudeme. To by bol beh na príliš dlhú trať. Vložíme niečo do výskumu, aby zostalo aj pre našich kritikov. A ja chcem niečo jemné, niečo ľudské – prílohu o sociálnych faktoroch. Dobre? Zvládneme to.“

Zvládli sme Himaláje, zvládli sme aj provinčnú vládu a napokon sme zvládli aj federálnu vládu v Islamabáde. Po 27 spoločných dňoch bola misia ukončená. Starý Japonec a Američan zaniesli správu do Ženevy. Kórejčan odišiel do Kórey, holandské dievča tu ostáva robiť nejaký vlastný výskum. Výskum kvôli výskumu. Bangladéšana poslali domov o štyri dni skôr. Rozpustil som ich. Som sám, príliš unavený, v karáčskom Sheratone. Moje povinnosti sa skončili a ja mám päť dní voľna, pred tým ako budem musieť byť vo Washingtone na stretnutí kvôli Gambijskej misii. Pokúšam sa, no nie príliš, spomenúť si na mená úradníkov v Pešávari a s radosťou zisťujem, že to nedokážem.

Dlho sa kúpem a zabalím sa do niekoľkých uterákov. Prechádzam sa po hotelových reštauráciách a kaviarňach, sledujúc ženy z cudziny bez toho, aby som sa zameral na nejakú konkrétnu. Pravdepodobne sa usmievam. Nepotrebujem spoločnosť. Mám jej akurát dosť. Späť na izbe si volám hotelovú službu a objednávam si pivo a nejaké jednoduché, západné jedlo. V televízii dávajú Blízke stretnutia tretieho druhu. Sadám si na posteľ, aby som si to pozrel. Opieram sa o vankúše a tácku s večerou mám pri sebe. V mysli spočítam, koľko som zarobil. Na to sa stratím vo filme. Potom zaspím.

Z anglického originálu The Development Game, ktorý vyšiel v Granta, č. 20, In Trouble Again: A Special Issue of Travel Writing, Winter 1986, napísaného pod pseudonymom, preložili Ľuba Hvizdošová a Tomáš Profant.

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